Époisses PDO Cheese

Description

Époisses PDO Cheese

About Époisses PDO

Époisses is as French as they come: gloriously stinky, wonderfully silky and unmistakably Burgundian.

It’s one of those cheeses that people often smell before they taste, which is a shame because underneath that famously whiffy rind is a cheese that can be surprisingly gentle. A beautifully ripe Époisses is rich, savoury, creamy and complex, rather than simply strong.

And yes, Pierre thoroughly approves.

The Backstory

Époisses takes its name from the small Burgundian village where it originated. Its history stretches back several centuries, with the cheese traditionally associated with Cistercian monks who are said to have passed their cheesemaking knowledge on to local farmers.

By the nineteenth century, Époisses had become one of Burgundy’s celebrated cheeses, but its fortunes changed dramatically during the twentieth century. Production dwindled and, by the years following the Second World War, it had almost disappeared completely.

Thankfully, that wasn’t the end of Époisses.

In the 1950s, Robert and Simone Berthaut began reviving the cheese in the village of Époisses, using the traditional methods that had almost been lost. Their work helped bring it back from the brink and started the revival that means we can still enjoy this gloriously smelly little cheese today.

The Make

Époisses is a soft cow’s milk cheese with a washed rind. During maturation, the young cheeses are repeatedly washed, initially with brine and later with a mixture that includes Marc de Bourgogne, the local grape spirit.

Those washes encourage the bacteria that create Époisses’ distinctive sticky orange-red rind — and, of course, that unmistakable aroma.

As the cheese ripens, it matures from the outside in. The paste immediately beneath the rind becomes increasingly soft and glossy while the centre gradually loses its firmness. A beautifully ripe Époisses can become wonderfully spoonable.

And this is where you really shouldn’t judge a cheese by its smell.

Protected by PDO Tradition

Époisses received French AOC protection in 1991 and is now protected by PDO status.

Production is restricted to a defined area of Burgundy and neighbouring regions, and the rules govern everything from the milk used to the way the cheeses are made and matured.

It’s a cheese very firmly connected to where it comes from — exactly the sort of thing Pierre likes to remind us the French were doing properly long before the rest of us got involved.

Époisses PDO – Jen’s Tasting Notes

How to Serve and Pair Époisses

• Make sure you take it out of the fridge a good hour before you want to eat it so it can come up to room temperature.
• Classic pairings: Staying in Burgundy makes perfect sense. A white Burgundy works beautifully; I’d choose something with enough body and acidity to balance all that creamy richness.
• Something a little different: A Belgian-style ale is brilliant with Époisses. The maltiness works particularly well with the savoury sweetness of the cheese.
• On the plate: Keep everything else simple. Good crusty bread is really all you need. Boiled new potatoes are rather wonderful too, particularly if your Époisses has reached the spoonable stage.
• In the kitchen: If you can bring yourself to cook with it rather than simply eat it, warm Époisses spooned over potatoes or grilled bread is ridiculously indulgent.

Jen’s note: There’s a wonderfully persistent story that Époisses smells so strong it was banned from public transport in France. Sadly, there doesn’t seem to be much evidence that it was ever actually true. But some cheese stories are simply too good not to tell — just don’t quote me when you’re thrown off a train with one.

Buying Époisses PDO

• Brand or Producer: Fromagerie Germain
• Product name: Époisses PDO
• Milk: Cow
• Country: France
• Region: Burgundy
• Strength: Medium in flavour, strong in smell!
• Vegetarian: No
• Suitable for pregnancy: No
• Allergens: MILK

Sizes and Prices

• Whole cheese (approx. 250g), £14.50

Storage Advice

• Keep refrigerated
• Wrap in waxed paper or foil
• Remove from the fridge before serving
• Consume within 10 to 14 days of opening

Delivery and Collection

• UK wide courier delivery
• Click and collect from our Pangbourne shop
• Free local delivery available for selected postcodes

Ingredients (Allergens are listed in capitals)

MILK, salt, ferments, rennet, Burgundy marc (traces)