Our Christmas orders are now closed. You can still buy our Cheese Subscriptions to start in January, as well as book our courses and tasting events. If you want to purchase vouchers you can do so until the 20th December but please note that it can take up to 48 hours for the vouchers to be emailed to you as we process these manually.
We have a full counter of cheese in our shop in Pangbourne so you can still come in and purchase items in store
Our Pangbourne shop will be closed for the day on Monday 23rd March as we’re having new display fridges installed.
We’re very sorry for the inconvenience this might cause.
£2.75 – £27.50Price range: £2.75 through £27.50
Montgomery is my desert island cheese. A traditional raw milk, clothbound Somerset Cheddar with a firm texture and wonderfully complex flavours that change subtly from wheel to wheel. Nutty, savoury, earthy and sometimes naturally blue, it’s everything I want a farmhouse Cheddar to be. If I could only eat one cheese for the rest of my life, this would be it.
There are cheeses I love, and then there is Montgomery Cheddar.
Made by Jamie Montgomery at Manor Farm in North Cadbury, Somerset, this is one of the great traditional West Country Farmhouse Cheddars. Jamie is the third generation of his family to farm here, and the cheese is still made using milk from the farm’s own herd.
Somerset is, of course, Cheddar country. The damp climate and lush pastures make it rather good dairy country too, and Montgomery is a cheese that really reflects where it comes from.
The cheeses are made every day of the year using raw cow’s milk and traditional animal rennet. The curds are cheddared by hand before the huge wheels are wrapped in muslin, brushed with lard and left to mature for around 12 to 14 months.
And this is where things get really interesting.
Because Montgomery is a proper farmhouse cheese, it doesn’t taste exactly the same every time we cut into one. The milk changes through the seasons, the cheese develops as it matures and every wheel has its own little differences. Some are fruitier, some more savoury, some a little earthier.
Occasionally we’ll even cut into one and discover some natural blueing inside.
I love that.
For me, those differences aren’t faults. They’re part of what makes farmhouse cheese so fascinating.
Montgomery is protected as a West Country Farmhouse Cheddar PDO, which means there are strict rules governing where and how it can be made.
Production is limited to Somerset, Dorset, Devon and Cornwall, and the cheese must be made using traditional Cheddar-making methods, including the wonderful process that gives Cheddar its name: cheddaring.
During the make, slabs of curd are cut, stacked, turned and restacked to help remove whey and develop the texture of the finished cheese.
Montgomery goes even further than the PDO requires, using milk from its own farm and maturing the cheeses in traditional cloth rather than sealing them in wax or plastic.
The cloth allows the cheese to breathe as it matures. Natural moulds develop on the outside and moisture is slowly lost, helping create that wonderfully firm texture and the complex flavours underneath.
I could probably write an entire page about the flavour of Montgomery.
Actually, I probably already have.
The texture is firm and slightly drier than many modern Cheddars, but there’s still a wonderful creaminess as it warms in your mouth. Then the flavours start appearing.
There’s nuttiness, earthiness and a deep savoury character, often with a lovely fruity acidity running through it. Sometimes I find flavours that remind me of hazelnuts or toasted bread; other wheels can be more grassy, brothy or almost meaty.
And then occasionally you get one with a little natural blueing running through the paste, bringing another layer of savoury, slightly spicy flavour.
But despite all those differences, somehow it always tastes unmistakably like Montgomery.
That’s one of the things I find so fascinating about it. It isn’t manufactured to taste identical every time. It changes with the milk, the seasons and the maturation, while still retaining its own identity.
For me, that’s what farmhouse cheese should be.
Jen’s note: If I could only eat one cheese for the rest of my life, it would be Montgomery Cheddar. We had a 6kg ring as the base of our wedding cheese cake and even now, the smell and taste can take me straight back there. If I ever make it onto Desert Island Discs, forget something practical for my luxury item. I’m taking a great big wedge of Monty.
Sizes and Prices
Storage Advice
Delivery and Collection
Ingredients (Allergens are listed in capitals)
MILK, starter cultures, rennet, salt
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Normal opening Monday – Saturday 9am – 4pm until:
Sunday 22nd 9am – 4pm
Monday 23rd 9am – 4pm
Christmas Eve 9am – 12pm
Christmas Day Closed
Boxing Day Closed
Friday 27th Closed
Saturday 28th 9am – 4pm
Sunday 29th Closed
Monday 30th 9am – 2pm
Tuesday 31st 9am – 2pm
New Year’s Day Closed
Thursday 2nd January Closed
Friday 3rd 9am – 4pm then open as normal
After Christmas our courier delivery slots start from 8th January.