Old Winchester Cheese

Old Winchester is one of those cheeses that really makes you sit up and take notice. It’s a hard, mature cheese with a lovely crunch and a flavour that somehow brings together Gouda, Cheddar, and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO all in one bite. It might not have the centuries of history behind it like some of the big European names, but its story is a brilliant example of British cheesemakers rolling up their sleeves and trying something new.

Old Winchester’s story starts at Lyburn Farm, tucked up on the edge of the New Forest in southern England. The Smales family have been milking cows there since the late 1960s, and their herd of British Friesians (or Holstein-Friesians, depending on who you ask) is at the heart of it all.

Back in the 1980s, milk prices were dropping, so the Smales family started thinking about what else they could do with all that lovely milk. Mike and Judy Smales signed up for a cheese-making course (just a quick one to start with) and then got stuck in back at the farm. They decided not to make another Cheddar (there were already plenty of those), so they took inspiration from Dutch cheeses and aimed for something in the Gouda family instead.

Their experiments changed everything. The first cheese they made, called Lyburn Gold, turned out a bit too soft for local tastes; people around there like their cheese with a bit more bite. So, they let it mature for longer. The first batch of matured cheese was named Winchester, after the city just up the road, and when they aged it even further, it became the drier, crunchier Old Winchester we know today.

So, Old Winchester was born out of a mix of need, clever thinking, and a dash of good luck. It’s a cheese that borrows from Gouda, suits British tastes, and shows what a determined farm family can do. Over time, they’ve tweaked the recipe and the ageing process, and it’s picked up quite a few awards along the way, both here and abroad.

These days, Old Winchester is pretty well-known in the world of British cheese, but it’s still very much a farmhouse cheese at heart. Every wheel is made by hand at Lyburn Farm, using pasteurised cow’s milk and vegetarian rennet. It’s left to mature for about 18 to 24 months, which is when it develops that lovely texture and deep flavour.

The way they make it takes a few cues from Gouda. Once the curd is cut, it’s washed and scalded, which helps make the cheese sweeter and gives it a longer shelf life than your average Cheddar. Because they use vegetarian rennet, Old Winchester is a favourite with vegetarians and cooks looking for a good stand-in for Parmigiano.