There’s always a moment when you can feel spring arriving. The air feels a bit softer, the trees start showing off their new green buds, and suddenly the markets are full of fresh herbs and the first spring veg. It’s a time that makes me want to open the windows, plan lighter meals, and enjoy those longer afternoons that hint at summer just around the corner. Earlier this week it felt like we were turning the corner into spring but today it has definitely reverted to winter!

For those of us who love cheese, spring is a bit of a treat. Winter is all about the big, bold, aged cheeses, but as soon as spring rolls in, it’s the soft cheeses that really come into their own. There’s something about a creamy wheel or a fresh log of cheese that just feels right at this time of year.

But why do soft cheeses taste so good in spring? It’s a mix of what’s happening in the fields, the rhythms of the animals, and the skill of the cheesemakers.

Cheese really starts in the fields, long before the milk ever reaches the dairy. In winter, cows, goats, and sheep are mostly eating hay or silage. It does the job, but it’s not quite the same as the fresh, varied pasture they get in spring. As soon as spring arrives, everything changes. The grass shoots up, wildflowers pop out, and the fields are suddenly full of good things to eat. The milk from animals grazing on this fresh pasture is just bursting with flavour.

Spring milk is characterised by a sweeter, more aromatic flavour and a richer content of certain fats and proteins. The natural pigments in fresh grass can even lend the milk a slightly golden hue. Cheesemakers prize this milk for its subtle floral notes and a freshness that translates beautifully into cheese.

Soft cheeses, which are usually young and only aged for a short time, really let these spring flavours shine through. Unlike hard cheeses that may age for months or years, soft cheeses are often ready to eat within days or weeks of production. This shorter maturation means they preserve the milk’s characteristics with remarkable clarity.

In spring, you can really taste the pasture in the cheese. Think of the bright tang of a fresh goat cheese, the pillowy creaminess of a young bloomy-rind wheel, or the luscious spoonable texture of a triple-cream. These cheeses feel alive with the season’s energy. Their flavours are delicate yet complex, grassy, lemony, slightly sweet, sometimes with hints of wild herbs. Because they’re not masked by long ageing, soft cheeses really let the special qualities of spring milk shine.

There’s another reason soft cheeses are so good in spring, and it’s all about the natural rhythms of the animals. Generally, cows, goats and sheep give birth in early spring. After calving, kidding or lambing, milk production begins in earnest. This, in turn, leads to a surge of fresh milk just as the weather warms. Historically, this meant cheesemakers had an abundance of milk and the answer was to make cheeses that were ready to eat almost straight away.

Fresh goat cheeses are probably the best example. They come in all shapes, logs, discs, and little rounds, and are often eaten just days after they’re made. Their tangy, bright flavour is perfect with spring veg like asparagus, radishes, peas, and the first tender lettuce. Sheep’s milk cheeses also begin appearing in greater numbers during this period, often in softer styles that highlight the milk’s naturally rich and buttery character.

Cooking at this time of year is all about lightness and freshness. After months of stews and soups, I find myself craving something a bit softer and brighter.

Soft cheeses fit right in with this change. Their textures (think creamy, spreadable, mousse-like…) make them perfect for simple meals. A wedge of bloomy-rind cheese spread across crusty bread, a dollop of fresh goat’s cheese crumbled over salad, or a spoonful of ricotta drizzled with honey can transform a dish with very little effort. They also go brilliantly with spring ingredients. Tender herbs like chives, dill, or tarragon are lovely with fresh cheese, and the first stone fruits make a sweet contrast to their gentle tang.

Even just warm new potatoes with a bit of butter and a spoonful of soft cheese on top can feel like a proper spring treat.

One of the most delightful aspects of soft cheeses is that they rarely need elaborate preparation. In many ways, they embody the philosophy of spring cooking itself: let great ingredients speak for themselves.

A simple cheeseboard in spring might include a fresh goat cheese, a small bloomy-rind wheel, and perhaps a creamy washed-rind cheese beginning to soften at the edges. Add a handful of grapes, some sourdough, and a drizzle of honey, and you’ve got a perfect cheeseboard. Soft cheeses are made for sharing and lingering over. They’re the perfect excuse to slow down and enjoy the first warm days of the year.

For centuries, cheesemaking has followed the seasons’ rhythms. Before fridges and supermarkets, cheese was a way to preserve milk and make the most of what was available at different times of year. Even today, those seasonal rhythms still shape the character of many cheeses.

Spring’s soft cheeses are the first taste of the new dairy year. They’re all about new grass, fresh milk, and the buzz of activity on the farm. Every bite is a reminder that the best food is always tied to its season.

But what else is new in Pangbourne? We are now selling loose and boxed chocolates in the cheese shop, they have been going down a treat and with Mother’s Day just around the corner they make a great gift. We also have a new blue cheese in the counter. It’s called Kingcott Blue and is made at Kingcott Dairy, Kent, using raw milk from their own cows. I think you really get a taste of the Kent countryside in every bite. The cheese itself is soft with gentle blue veining running through a creamy, supple centre. The flavour is mellow and nicely balanced, not too strong, just savoury enough to keep you coming back for more. At the moment it’s just with us as a guest but, you never know, it might end up staying!